The return to the lower 48 begins

Leaving Denali, most people head to north to Fairbanks or south to Anchorage. But we wanted to see some nature so we decided to head east and take the Old Denali highway. It’s about 130 miles of gravel with a few sections of asphalt. The worst part was for the first 70 miles the road was so rough we could only go 20 mph max. Sometimes we were going so slow the speedometer was at zero. The worst part is because it was so rough Zygi couldn’t nap so we had crying and screaming to go along with bumpy road. We did find an amazing camp area at the old airfield (Yes it REALLY was shutdown there was abandoned equipment in the middle of it and fire rings everywhere, plus a new strip a quarter mile a way). Anyways it had gorgeous views of both the mountains and a glacier. It was one of my favorite campsites of all time. Unfortunately, Victoria disagreed because of the bugs (what bugs;). It was so amazing because not only did it have a great view of the mountains and glacier, but we were all alone, out in the real middle of nowhere, no road noise, no neighbors. It’s nice to camp with just the family.

Luckily the next day the road started to improve (if I was to do it again I would approach and leave from the east). However the next day I noticed someone looking at my trailer wheels odd. I took a look myself and they seemed closer than my other side. I thought it was because we were parked on a hill. Turns out the buckle the holds the leaf-springs on didn’t just break but brought some of the frame with it. We noticed when we were smelled burning and stopped at a rest area, our tires were touching. Time to call shops on a Thursday again, a week out they say. Victoria managed to find not only the AAA rep in the area but that same shop was happy to take the business on Friday. We arrived at about 5 pm behind our trailer. Lucky for us at not extra cost some mechanics agreed to stay after and finish it that night as they were worried they would be too busy to look at it the next day. I was surprised at how young they were, the two of them couldn’t of been older that 18. But they did a great job. Three hours later we were ready to go, a little less than $300 lighter but happy for it. This was back in the town of GlennAllen and the shop was named GlennAlenn Fuel, I highly recommend them.

The next day we were back on the Glenn highway heading for Tok. (You have to go through Tok either way you enter or leave Alaska as the junction is there). We found a nice little rest area near a river to spend the night. When we first pulled in, we were the only RV there. Then I had an interesting thing happen when another RV pulled in. Where did they park? Directly next to us , with their generator running, with the rest area having room for maybe 15 RV’s. I asked him about it nicely, he smiled, an hour later he parked on the other side. That’s like the first rule of camping, unless your camping with friends of course, you park away from others. By the end of the day, it looked like an RV park at that rest area.

Next we passed through Tok and turned onto the Taylor highway. We stopped by the famous town of Chicken. Chicken is a tourist trap that didn’t used to be maybe ten years earlier. Didn’t matter Victoria loved it for the name. There isn’t much to Chicken. The town is all dirt road. There is a saloon, and a handful of gift shops. We camped at the Walter Fork BLM Campground ($5 with America the Beautiful pass discount.) I liked the river at the campground. I skinny dipped (no one around) along with skipping stones, I had at least a 15 hopper in there. Nothing like bathing in a mountain river like God intended. All these roads were gravel but decent gravel, you could run 40 or 50 mph down it no problem unlike The Old Denali Rd. The was a lot more assents and descents than usual for up here but when it takes you to the Top of the World Highway, it’s worth it.

 

We made it to ALASKA! First stop: Valdez

After a little over a week we were finally back on the road heading towards the Alcan border. We camped one night in another Yukon government campground in Snag Junction. We arrived late and left early the next day. On the way to the border we stopped at the “Welcome to Alaska” sign and took a picture. We don’t normally take those pictures but hey, we freaking DROVE all the way to Alaska.

Welcome to Alaska!

The border crossing went smoothly. The officer was very friendly, only asked a few typical questions and sent us on our way without inspection. The road has gotten very rough before and after the crossing. There are lots of frost heaves and potholes. We have to drive slowly to avoid more problems. But that’s fine because even though the road isn’t great the scenery is gorgeous!  After leaving Whitehorse we have seen 3 trucks pulled over changing tires.

Driving along the Tok Cutoff we camped at our first pullout. The highway noise wasn’t too bad as in the evening a car will pass here and there. The scenery was great looking out the window at the mountains. It was here that I randomly decided we would take a side trip to Valdez. Some of you may have heard of Valdez from the infamous Exxon oil spill in 1989. I decided to take the trip because the Milepost said the Richardson highway was beautiful and with the Fourth of July around the corner I figured we would try and avoid the crowd and go to Valdez instead of heading towards the popular Kenai peninsula.

Boondocking at a pullout along the Glenn Highway (in between Tok and Glennallen). El Oso is pretty dirty from all the hard driving.

On the day we were heading for Valdez the weather was awful. It was cloudy so we couldn’t even see the gorgeous mountains I read about. We did get to see the Alaskan pipeline in the distance which was cool. When we got to the top of the highway a cloud came through and totally occluded the visibility of the road. We could only see about 15 feet ahead of us. We pulled over to wait for it to pass. After about 10 minutes and watching cars haul butt past us we decided that we should keep going. After like 3 minutes we descended and were out of the cloud and everything was all good. We pass by a couple of waterfalls along the road.

We camped at Bear Paw RV park as we needed to do our weekly laundry and showers (haha we are gross hippies). It was $45 a night! But the showers were great and the laundry machines were the best I’ve ever used in my 3 years of traveling. The machines use coins which are $3 a piece and each machine takes one coin. The guy working said one dryer holds 2 loads. I though he was full of crap. The dryers were huge and looked like they came off the Enterprise. But man he was right, they worked awesome.

Enough about laundry, our campsite was great. Yet it was $45 a night but you get what you pay for. The day we arrived was so cloudy and gloomy but the next day the sun burned the clouds away and we could see that we were literally surrounded by snow capped mountains. We could walk to the harbor, walk to get food (which we didn’t do a lot of because the prices were exorbitant,$15 for a hamburger, $30 for pizza). The color of the water was a very pretty cool blue.

Tim’s wound is still healing so we couldn’t do any long hiking but we did walk around the city quite a bit. There is a nice park we walked to and walking the docks is always nice. They have some serious fishing boats here! We had to leave on July 3rd but we have plans for the fourth. See how we celebrated the nation’s birthday on the next article.

Belated Father’s Day meal of corned beef hash.