We had heard about the amazing motorbike ride from Hoi An to Hue, originally from the Top Gear Vietnam Special (If your even mildly interested in travel or comedy you should check it out, episode 8, series 12, it’s hilarious). They rated it as the best coast road in the world, and those are the guys who would know! One way rentals from Hoi An to/from Hue are available from Motorvina ($400,000 VMD or $20 USD), they even send your bags ahead so you don’t have to carry them. The trip was truly amazing and little trafficked.
Cave – Marble Mountain
Random Buddha on the way to elephant springs
The top of Hai Van Pass
Hai Van Pass
Marble Mountain Shrine
Marble Mountain Shrine
Random Temple on the way to Elephant Springs
Elephant Springs
Elephant Springs
Once we arrived in Hue we decided we liked the ride so much we bought a bike of our own. After speaking with other backpackers and random Vietnamese guys outside our hotel we ended up buying the bike from Kim Thien, a pretty famous mechanic around these parts. He was recommended online as the best mechanic in Hue and some even claim all of Vietnam. Anyways, we end up with a 10 year old Yamaha Nouvo with only 20,000 km on it for $240, a locals bike rather than a backpackers bike (that gets run up and down the country repeatedly). He was also able to custom modify a rack for us to carry our bags on each side of the bike rather than piled on top like farangs usually do(foreigners, more a Thai expression but I like it). So far the bike has been just about flawless.
Mr Kim and Helpers
Time to hit the road
Once we got the bike we decided we should take it for a cruise around the area before leaving town just in case there were any problems. First we explored an abandoned water park a fellow traveler told us about that was cool and eerie at the same time. Then we cruised out to the beach that was nice and deserted in the middle of the day, although I’m sure the locals show up around 5pm as the trend has been thus so far. The only problem was the amount of jellyfish everywhere, so we headed back to get in the pool. On the way back we got some fresh coconut water with the meat in an ice-cold pitcher, just perfect.
Imperial City
Coconut Water and Meat, Yum Yum
It was SO hot, the pool was amazing.
Timmy’s
Imperial City
Bridge over to the Imperial City
Abandoned Water Park
Abandoned Water Park
The Mouth of the Dragon! Abandoned water park.
From Hue we took our new-to-us motorbike to the Vinh Moc Tunnels in Dong Ha and then on to the stunning National Park Phong Nha. Awesome photos and videos to come
Hoi An is a must if you travel to Vietnam. There are so many great things about it. It has a nice beach, a quaint downtown scene which locals call the “old town” and lots of delicious, cheap, street food. Most of the accommodations in Hoi An are “homestays.” We decided to stay at Thanh Laun homestay located between the old town and the beach. The homestay came with free bikes which came in handy for getting around. The hostess of the homestay, Trinh, was very welcoming and made delicious coffee and breakfast every morning. Thanh Luan is located right off the main road, Hai Ba Trung. If you go north it will take you to An Bang beach. If you go south you will hit the old town. Since we stayed in the middle it only took us 10 minutes by bike to get to either. And the food, ohhhh myyyy GAWWWWDDDDD! Commence food pics….
Mi xao bo (stir fried beef noodles)
Com ga (chicken fried rice)
Thit heo quay (Get in ma belly…pork belly)
Hoi An speciality “White Rose”. A delicate shrimp dumpling.
Cao Lau!!! I love saying it,(pronounced Cow Laow). Sweet and sour noodles topped with pork cracklings.
Hu Tieu. This is straight up Vietnamese comfort food right here. The broth is to die for…
Grilled chicken skewers. 50 cents each and comes with spring roll accessories. Make yourself. So fun to assemble and eat!
Ban xeo (coconut milk crepe). Another fun food to assemble and eat. The pic shows the crepe rolled up and ready to consume.
Bun ca….Cool and refreshing dry noodles with fish cake, shrimp and other various seasonings that magically come together to create another delicious dish.
The bike ride to the beach is very beautiful, especially at sunset. In fact, we think Hoi An has the best sunset we have seen so far in Vietnam. There can be quite a bit of traffic on the road but it didn’t have much of an impact on the beauty of our surroundings. There are rice farmers throwing seeds in the paddy fields and grazing water buffalo. There is an intersection before you get to the beach, turn left and take the next right and venture down one of the alleys for a less crowded area of the beach. You can park your bikes for free and the chair rentals are only 20,000 VMD ($1). Don’t follow Hai Ba Trung all the way to the beach or you will have to pay to park your bike and like $70,000 VMD for a beach chair. Also it is VERY crowded at this section of the beach. The locals start to crowd the beach daily around 5 pm.
An Bang Beach
An Bang Beach
Water buffalo
Riding bikes along the rice paddy fields
Fisherman
Romantic sunset
You do not have to pay to go into the Old Town. There are some historic buildings that you must have a ticket to go into but it doesn’t cost anything to walk around. Wandering around the old town at night is a must. Motorbikes are not allowed and the old town is lit up by colorful lanterns. It creates a romantic ambiance. There are ladies that strongly encourage you to purchase their “wish” candles you can float down the river. I couldn’t resist. We noticed a huge difference in the amount of people on the weekend verses weekday so if possible try to avoid visiting on the weekend.
Handmade sailboat store
River in old town
Lit up bridge
Ice cream eating silhouette
Old town at night
Tim dropping his “wish” candle in the river
Another thing you must do is have some clothes tailor-made. Having wide hips and long legs, it has always been a struggle in my life to find a great pair of jeans. A petite Vietnamese lady took my measurements and in less than 24 hours I had a $40 pair of jeans that never fit me so good. For $70, Tim had a purple sports coat made. He was due for a new one. If you know Tim, you know how much he loves his purple sport’s coat he got from a Goodwill like 10 years ago. The ladies nailed our clothes since neither one of us needed adjustments. You can literally have anything you want made in 24 hours. If you have a picture of what you want, the tailors can copy it for you. It is simply amazing.
Tim with his new coat
Old town during the day
Vietnamese market
We spent five very enjoyable nights in Hoi An and could have stayed longer. Tim and I have been hearing a lot about this very popular ride from Hoi An to Hue via motorbike….Stay tuned.